Friday, 22 May 2009
Saturday, 15 March 2008
Animal Legislation
The SPCA has long felt that local animal legislation is outmoded. In many instances it is not even relevant to current needs and situations. Local legislation is piecemeal, there are a number of ordinances relating to our animals; Protection of animals ordinance, Animal Trespass Ordinance, Dogs and Cats Ordinance, Agriculture and Livestock Improvement Ordinance. These documents in some cases overlap and in others there are a number of crucial omissions.
As such the SPCA is currently in the process of carrying out a comparison of local laws with UK legislation with a view to making recommendations to create a new Animal Ordinance which is relevant to local needs and provides for the care and protection of all animals.
We would like to use this forum to invite you to comment on this project, we have had discussions with one of the stakeholders who has agreed to submit comments and any further comments will be gratefully received.
As such the SPCA is currently in the process of carrying out a comparison of local laws with UK legislation with a view to making recommendations to create a new Animal Ordinance which is relevant to local needs and provides for the care and protection of all animals.
We would like to use this forum to invite you to comment on this project, we have had discussions with one of the stakeholders who has agreed to submit comments and any further comments will be gratefully received.
Saturday, 1 March 2008
feral cats
A big thank you to Rebecca who sent us the minute of our meeting we already announced last week.
Notes of meeting 22 February 2008, Tinker’s Flat
Present: Jason Thomas, Georgina Young, Eddie Duff, Michel Martineau, Fiona Burns, Andrew Darlow, Robert Draper, Arthur March and Rebecca Cairns-Wicks
The aim of the meeting was to discuss the impacts of cats, principally feral cats, on wildlife and consider ways of raising awareness amongst the public about cat behaviour and reducing (or not causing an increase) the feral cat population on the island.
SPCA recognises that neutering all the islands cats is an impossible task and are aware that not all cat owners are being responsible for their cats – e.g. leaving them to fend for themselves when not on island. They are currently looking at the existing legislation regarding animal welfare on the island with the aim of updating and reforming it. There is currently nothing to regulate for the control or care of cats. As SPCA are already working on this it is sensible that they continue to take the lead.
Action:
All those with comments about the existing legislation and what they feel needs to be included in revised legislation to contact Cherie Dillon – (Cherie please you provide a home email address or SPCA blog address so that we can make contact).
Could Cherie, ANRD and PHD provide details of the different laws that apply and need to be considered.
Public Health carry-out cat trapping. This is currently targeted in urban areas as a response to complaints from the public. Cat trapping takes place between 6-10pm but is not very effective because people provide sanctuary for problem cats. It seems that people don’t want cats on their property but also don’t want to see them killed. The only legislation that supports PHD in carrying out their work is the Trespassing Ordinance. PHD would like to be more pro-active rather than responsive. Fiona informed group that the majority of cat predation events on wirebirds were recorded at Man & Horse. PHD would consider trapping at Man & Horse if needed. Fiona/SHNT to advise further on this before action taken.
Education and awareness raising is seen as the first step. In planning a programme it was agreed that we would all work with SPCA, and that it would include promoting the services provided by ANRD, SPCA and PHD. Julie Balchin is the key SPCA member to liaise with about cats.
Cats are also recognised for their beneficial impact of controlling the rodent population. The education and awareness programme is to improve owner behaviour to reduce the nuisance of feral cats and the incidence of feral cats and their impact on wildlife. Any focused small-scale cat control efforts, particularly in urban areas, should consider how the rodent/rabbit population will respond and tackle this at the same time. Future larger scale control programmes will need to consider how to work to bring rodents as well as cats under control.
Fiona has footage of cats on camera taking wirebird eggs and will provide this to SPCA to use in promotional campaigns. Fiona will meet with the Governor to appraise him of her work here over the last 4 months and inform him of plans re education and promotion.
ANRD and PHD to provide information about the numbers of cats neutered, cats trapped each year. More information about the size of the feral cat population would be useful. Fiona to approach Emma Bennett to find out more about her findings of cats at Gill Point. Eddie to forward information about cat scat exercise by the Carpenters.
Fiona and Rebecca to get together to consider what an educational campaign might include.
Thursday, 28 February 2008
dog training ... what is it ???
There have been incidents involving dogs on St Helena over the past few years, which have resulted in it being very noticeable that a lot of dogs are not trained in basic Obedience. Some of the incidents involve dogs killing and worrying livestock, which has serious repercussions, whilst other dogs are allowed to wander unattended on the Highway etc. These incidents because of the vast number have brought to the foreground the absolute need for basic obedience training. Dogs are pack animals and will follow the `Alpha Dog`. In the case of a trained dog, the `Alpha` is its master. Owners of pet dogs who are untrained, run the risk of having their dog involved in such unacceptable incidents as previously mentioned, which in turn could lead to prosecution for the owner and the dog being `put to sleep` Many of the problems happen simply because the Owner cannot `Handle` their dog because they’ve never been taught how. Ignorance unfortunately is no excuse for breaking the law. Dogs deserve a happy life as much as humans do. A trained dog that is taught right from wrong is a much happier dog. He knows what he can do and what he mustn’t, much like a child is a parent’s responsibility to teach right from wrong. A Dog owner has the responsibility to ensure he teaches his dog the same.
The St Helena SPCA recognised there was a problem. Mr Paul Laban, a member of the Society with vast experience with dogs put a suggestion forward how the problems could be minimised if not eradicated. He and his wife, would willingly give up their own time, and voluntarily assist the people of St Helena by providing a service much needed but up to that point unavailable. His suggestion was wholeheartedly accepted.
On Wednesday 8th August 2007, the very first Dog Training session took place at Longwood Community centre. The Evening was cold and blustery but seven dogs and their handlers ignored the adverse weather and in good spirits and, with more than a little curiosity, attended this first session of an eight-session course. Professional dog Trainer/Handler, Londoner Paul Laban ably assisted by his island born wife Olga, who also has worked with dogs for a good few years, held the course. Paul and Olga, we are happy to add, are also invaluable serving committee members of the St Helena SPCA.
The sessions consisted of basic Obedience. Walking to heel correctly, which started on lead and progressed to off lead, there were lessons on how to get your dog to sit and stay on command, and later on `retrieve` was taught.
The dogs that varied in ages from 6 months to five years were, when they started, of varying abilities, Some having had no prior training at all. By the time the sessions ended all dogs had insight into the abovementioned and some had mastered several.
At the end of the eighth week, the handlers were pleasantly surprised by the big difference they could see in their dogs and the confidence they had found within themselves with regard to the handling of their respective pets.
Next on Wednesday 31st August 2007 came the turn of Kingshurst Community Centre. News by now of how exciting and beneficial the training at Longwood had been had filtered through our small community. This time twelve dogs with their handlers showed up, eager to be taught and to learn basic dog handling skills. Again, each and every dog and handler learnt new skills and the handlers were amazed by their dogs’ performances. The Classes were informal and relaxed and the atmosphere was one of astonishment and delight each time a new skill was learnt. Paul and Olga apart from doing the basic obedience classes also assisted with the individual problems being experienced by the handlers, which made the sessions purposeful and beneficial for all. Sadly the 12th December, the eighth week, came much too fast.
Wednesday 16th January 2008 saw the beginning of the first class in the Half Tree Hollow Community Centre. Here five dogs and their handlers have started an eight-week course. It would seem that with each district visited the dogs are learning faster than ever! The dogs are there for different reasons, some merely to socialize, others are at different stages of training development and need to be put through the paces. Half Tree Hollow community centre Hall offers a much bigger working space and with fewer animals than before these dogs and their handlers are coming on by leaps and bounds!! They’ve managed easily the basic obedience and are now going onto more advanced topics such as retrieve off lead as a group and walking to heel in a figure eight with all dogs walking at a few seconds interval. Below are just a few photos proving that dogs are smart and no matter how big or small or whether pedigree or mongrel they can all learn, mix well together and be mans (Or womans!) best friend!! The Course at Half Tree Hollow ends, regrettably on Wednesday 5th March 2008.
Paul and Olga had this to say. “The dog training sessions are not a boring routine. They’re exciting and those that have so far taken part have stated that they’ve seen a great difference in the personality of their dogs and have found the training beneficial to them as handlers in every respect.” They further stated “ We look forward to hearing from as many people as possible, who are interested in training their dogs, We can assure you that you won’t be disappointed but you will be very surprised at just what can be achieved.”
The way forward is to have smaller classes thereby giving more space to the dogs which in turn caused less confrontations, barking etc. It also allows more time for Paul and Olga to concentrate more on a one to one basis with each dog and handler ironing out any problems they may be having.
Paul and Olga plan to visit all districts across the island. So if you’re interested in these sessions and feel you and your dog will benefit, you will be kept updated so you know when Paul and Olga are going to be holding sessions in your area. You can, of course, attend sessions outside of your area, if its easier for you.
The next district will be Jamestown. The date this will start is yet to be finalised but you will be kept updated.
If you are an interested dog owner and you want to know more then contact Paul or Olga on 4648.
MEDICATIONS
Liquid medicine is the easiest to give to unwilling pets. Often a needleless syringe will accompany the liquid. Draw up the designated amount, then insert the tip into the corner of your pet’s mouth and slowly squirt the medicine into his cheek. Keep his head tipped up so that gravity prompts the medicine to flow in the right direction. Stroke his throat until you see him swallow. You may need to give just a few drops at a time to be sure that he gets it all. If you do not have a needleless syringe, you can use an eyedropper.
PILLING
Dogs often take pills willingly when they’re hidden in a tasty treat, but, some dogs and most cats will swallow the treat and spit out the pill. You must make sure your pet actually swallows for it to do any good.
HOW SHOULD I DO THIS?
FOR A DOG
To give a dog a pill, circle the top of his snout with your hand, pressing both sides of his jaw along the gum line just behind the large pointed canine teeth. This action will prompt your dog to open wide. When he does, push the pill over the hill of his tongue with your other hand, then close his mouth; gently stroke his throat until he swallows. Follow the pill with a treat to chase it down so that he’s distracted and forgets to spit it out.
FOR A CAT
The same technique works with many cats, but if it doesn’t, grasp the loose fur at the scruff of your cats neck and pull his head back until his nose points to the ceiling. His mouth will automatically drop open. Just pull down the jaw with one finger and drop the pill into his mouth at the back of the tongue. (It helps to put some butter or margarine on the pill to help it slide down.) Aim for the `V` shape in the centre of the cats tongue. Close his mouth and watch for him to swallow. Cats usually lick their noses after swallowing a pill. You can also crush the pill with the bowl of a spoon, mix it into a piece of strong smelling cat food, and feed it to your cat.
MEDICATING YOUR PETS EARS
Pets ear canals are long and curved, so it takes a special technique to get medicine where it needs to go. Usually, ear medication is a liquid or ointment. To apply it, tip your pets head so the opening of the effected ear points upwards. Put several drops of the medicine in the ear canal, then firmly grasp your pets ear flap so that he doesn’t immediately shake his head and put the medicine all over you. Use your other hand to massage the base of the ear. You should hear a `squishing` sound as the medicine spreads through the inner canal.
MEDICATING YOUR PETS EYES
Eye medication is usually a liquid or ointment, and you apply both the same way. Tip your pets head so he is looking at the ceiling. Gently pull down the lower eyelid on the effected eye and drip or squirt several drops of the medicine into the cupped tissue. Then, release the eyelid and let your pet blink several times. This will naturally spread the medicine over the eye surface wherever it’s needed.
FOREIGN OBJECTS IN THE MOUTH
Dogs often get objects stuck in their mouths because they have to chew and play with everything they pick up. The most common items are broken sticks or pieces of bone. Cats are less likely to have these problems, but like dogs, they can get parts of toys stuck in their teeth, string wrapped around the bases of their tongues or grass seeds penetrating their tongues or gums. Pets with longer fur might get painful burrs stuck in their mouths when they nibble out the foreign material that gets caught in their toes or coats.
A Pet with something caught in its mouth acts frantic. He shakes his head, paws at his mouth, drools, cries and races around. When the object cuts tissue, the saliva may be blood-tinged. Sometimes, the pet further injures himself by biting his tongue while trying to get rid of the object. Sometimes though, the only signs will be a reluctance to eat and bad breath. A foreign object in the mouth isn’t dangerous unless it blocks breathing,, but it can be painful and scary.
CALL A&NRD
If its left in place for longer than a day, it can cause infection. Some pets become so hysterical that they must be sedated before the object can be removed. Objects embedded in tissue need medical treatment.
You also need to call A&NRD if: you can’t remove the object yourself or if your pet won’t let you look in its mouth; your pet has injured his teeth, lips, tongue or the inside of his mouth; if there is a sting or sting like material caught or wrapped around the base of his tongue; if it appears that the object has been there for a while,(Your pet may have a poor appetite or worse breath than usual)the item may be embedded and A&NRD may have to remove it surgically. But often, first aid is all that’s needed to get rid of a foreign object in the mouth.
DO THIS NOW
Restrain your pet, A pet with something caught in his mouth will be understandably upset and may not hold still for you to help. You’ll need to carefully restrain him otherwise you may hurt him while trying to remove the object, and he may bite you.
For a cat or a small dog, grasp him with one hand by the loose skin of the neck and shoulders and gather the rear paws with your other hand. Gently stretch him out on one side on a table or counter top, then a second person can carefully open his mouth to look inside.
For a larger dog, kneel on the floor beside him and hug him to your chest with one arm reaching around his neck. Put your other arm under and around his chest. Have a second person examine his mouth.
OPEN HIS MOUTH
To open your pets mouth place one hand over his head and circle his muzzle with your thumb and middle fingers so the fingertips press his lips against his teeth just behind the long canine teeth. This will prompt your pet to open his mouth. Use your other hand to gently press down on the jaw and open his mouth wider. Never put your fingers between your dogs teeth to force him to open up.
You can sometimes remove a piece of feather or piece of toy with your fingers. If you can’t reach it, try using blunt tipped tweezers. You’ll probably need something stronger like needle nose pliers for bones or other larger objects.
FOR OTHER STICKS OR BONES
Dogs who play with sticks or chew long bones typically get sections wedged horizontally across the roof of the mouth between the upper molars. Sometimes a stick or bone gets caught vertically and levers the mouth wide open so that your pet can’t shut his jaws. You can use a dull butter knife or the handle of a spoon to pry the object off his teeth or the roof of his mouth.
FOR STRING OR RIBBON
For ribbon, tinsel or other string type material, check to see if any part of it has been swallowed, and if so, leave it for A&NRD to remove. Pulling string out of the throat could cut tissue deep inside and even kill a pet. However, if the material is loose in the mouth, remove it slowly and carefully. STOP if you feel any resistance and get to A&NRD RIGHT AWAY
FOLLOW –UP CARE
For any kind of injury to the mouth, you will be prescribed antibiotics. For dogs you can usually hide the medication in their food. Cats tend to take liquid antibiotics more easily than pills. Tilt your cat’s head back, fit a needleless syringe or eyedropper into her cheek at the corner of her mouth, and dribble in the medication. Hold her mouth closed until you see her swallow, then immediately offer her a tasty treat that she won’t refuse. Often, the cat forgets to try and spit out medicine while enjoying the treat.
If the inside of your pet’s mouth has been scraped, or if it has bitten its tongue or cheeks, it may need stitches inside its mouth. Usually absorbable sutures are used; these won’t need to be removed. (Check with A&NRD to see if these are available) but the mouth can be so sore that it will hurt your pet to eat its regular diet.
Pets should be fed a soft diet for several days, until the worst of the cuts have healed. Use your pet’s regular food and mix it with low fat, no salt chicken broth in the blender to make a watery gruel that’s easy to lap up.
FIRST ALERT- CHOKING
When a foreign object gets caught in the back of a pets mouth or throat, he will gag, retch and cough. He then becomes frantic when his air supply is cut off. Choking is a life-threatening emergency that needs immediate first aid.
WHAT SHOULD I DO?
It can be nearly impossible to reach and grip objects stuck in a pet’s throat.
You can use a modified “HEIMLOCK MANOEUVRE ” to try to pop
the blockage out of the airway; Hold a cat or small dog like a human baby, with his head up, his hind legs swinging down, and his back against your stomach. Place your fist in the dip below the rib cage and use it to pull sharply inward and upward toward your chin. Repeat this two or three times quickly, then check to see if the object has been dislodged. Remove it if it has, If it hasn’t moved, you can continue this manoeuvre in the car as someone else drives you to A&NRD.
LARGER PET
For a larger pet, lay him on his side as you kneel behind him with your knees against his backbone. As you lean over him, place your fist in the dip below the ribcage and push sharply up and in toward the dogs head and your knees. Repeat two or three times quickly; Check to see if the object has come up, if so remove it. If not, continue the manoeuvre in the car as someone else drives you to A&NRD.
A Pet with something caught in its mouth acts frantic. He shakes his head, paws at his mouth, drools, cries and races around. When the object cuts tissue, the saliva may be blood-tinged. Sometimes, the pet further injures himself by biting his tongue while trying to get rid of the object. Sometimes though, the only signs will be a reluctance to eat and bad breath. A foreign object in the mouth isn’t dangerous unless it blocks breathing,, but it can be painful and scary.
CALL A&NRD
If its left in place for longer than a day, it can cause infection. Some pets become so hysterical that they must be sedated before the object can be removed. Objects embedded in tissue need medical treatment.
You also need to call A&NRD if: you can’t remove the object yourself or if your pet won’t let you look in its mouth; your pet has injured his teeth, lips, tongue or the inside of his mouth; if there is a sting or sting like material caught or wrapped around the base of his tongue; if it appears that the object has been there for a while,(Your pet may have a poor appetite or worse breath than usual)the item may be embedded and A&NRD may have to remove it surgically. But often, first aid is all that’s needed to get rid of a foreign object in the mouth.
DO THIS NOW
Restrain your pet, A pet with something caught in his mouth will be understandably upset and may not hold still for you to help. You’ll need to carefully restrain him otherwise you may hurt him while trying to remove the object, and he may bite you.
For a cat or a small dog, grasp him with one hand by the loose skin of the neck and shoulders and gather the rear paws with your other hand. Gently stretch him out on one side on a table or counter top, then a second person can carefully open his mouth to look inside.
For a larger dog, kneel on the floor beside him and hug him to your chest with one arm reaching around his neck. Put your other arm under and around his chest. Have a second person examine his mouth.
OPEN HIS MOUTH
To open your pets mouth place one hand over his head and circle his muzzle with your thumb and middle fingers so the fingertips press his lips against his teeth just behind the long canine teeth. This will prompt your pet to open his mouth. Use your other hand to gently press down on the jaw and open his mouth wider. Never put your fingers between your dogs teeth to force him to open up.
You can sometimes remove a piece of feather or piece of toy with your fingers. If you can’t reach it, try using blunt tipped tweezers. You’ll probably need something stronger like needle nose pliers for bones or other larger objects.
FOR OTHER STICKS OR BONES
Dogs who play with sticks or chew long bones typically get sections wedged horizontally across the roof of the mouth between the upper molars. Sometimes a stick or bone gets caught vertically and levers the mouth wide open so that your pet can’t shut his jaws. You can use a dull butter knife or the handle of a spoon to pry the object off his teeth or the roof of his mouth.
FOR STRING OR RIBBON
For ribbon, tinsel or other string type material, check to see if any part of it has been swallowed, and if so, leave it for A&NRD to remove. Pulling string out of the throat could cut tissue deep inside and even kill a pet. However, if the material is loose in the mouth, remove it slowly and carefully. STOP if you feel any resistance and get to A&NRD RIGHT AWAY
FOLLOW –UP CARE
For any kind of injury to the mouth, you will be prescribed antibiotics. For dogs you can usually hide the medication in their food. Cats tend to take liquid antibiotics more easily than pills. Tilt your cat’s head back, fit a needleless syringe or eyedropper into her cheek at the corner of her mouth, and dribble in the medication. Hold her mouth closed until you see her swallow, then immediately offer her a tasty treat that she won’t refuse. Often, the cat forgets to try and spit out medicine while enjoying the treat.
If the inside of your pet’s mouth has been scraped, or if it has bitten its tongue or cheeks, it may need stitches inside its mouth. Usually absorbable sutures are used; these won’t need to be removed. (Check with A&NRD to see if these are available) but the mouth can be so sore that it will hurt your pet to eat its regular diet.
Pets should be fed a soft diet for several days, until the worst of the cuts have healed. Use your pet’s regular food and mix it with low fat, no salt chicken broth in the blender to make a watery gruel that’s easy to lap up.
FIRST ALERT- CHOKING
When a foreign object gets caught in the back of a pets mouth or throat, he will gag, retch and cough. He then becomes frantic when his air supply is cut off. Choking is a life-threatening emergency that needs immediate first aid.
WHAT SHOULD I DO?
It can be nearly impossible to reach and grip objects stuck in a pet’s throat.
You can use a modified “HEIMLOCK MANOEUVRE ” to try to pop
the blockage out of the airway; Hold a cat or small dog like a human baby, with his head up, his hind legs swinging down, and his back against your stomach. Place your fist in the dip below the rib cage and use it to pull sharply inward and upward toward your chin. Repeat this two or three times quickly, then check to see if the object has been dislodged. Remove it if it has, If it hasn’t moved, you can continue this manoeuvre in the car as someone else drives you to A&NRD.
LARGER PET
For a larger pet, lay him on his side as you kneel behind him with your knees against his backbone. As you lean over him, place your fist in the dip below the ribcage and push sharply up and in toward the dogs head and your knees. Repeat two or three times quickly; Check to see if the object has come up, if so remove it. If not, continue the manoeuvre in the car as someone else drives you to A&NRD.
BLEEDING
Bleeding often looks more serious than it really is. Clotting usually begins in 60 to 90 seconds and a scab will appear in a few hours. Some of the “safest” wounds in fact, are those that bleed heavily at first, because the blood flushes away debris and bacteria.
Deep wounds however, and wounds involving a severed vein or artery are more serious. Neck and leg wounds tend to be the worst because large veins and arteries lie near the surface in these areas. Blood from a damaged vein is dark red and flows evenly. Blood from a damaged artery spurts with each heartbeat, is bright red and is generally much more serious.
Bleeding from shallow cuts and scrapes can be stopped with simple First Aid. Deeper wounds always need medical attention, even when you’re able to stop the bleeding at home.
Control the Bleeding
Don’t wash wounds that are bleeding heavily, it will make it harder for clots to form. You need to control the bleeding first. Apply a gauze pad on a clean piece of cloth to the wound, or use a sanitary towel, it’s perfect because the material is highly absorbent. If blood soaks through the towel, apply a second towel on top of the first one and continue the pressure,(Removing the first one will remove the clot that’s trying to form)the bleeding should stop in 5 minutes or less.
When you can’t stop bleeding with finger pressure alone, you’ll need to apply a pressure bandage. With the original pad still in place, wrap it with several layers of roll gauze, an elastic bandage like an `Ace` bandage or even duct tape or meshing tape. The pressure bandage should be firm but not tight. If you can’t easily slip the end of a cotton swab under the bandage, it is probably too tight. For smaller pets cover the absorbent pad with plastic wrap and keep pressure on the pad.
Look for signs of shock
Pets who have lost a lot of blood also lose their ability to retain heat, and they may go into shock- a condition in which the bodies organs shut down. Shock can kill a pet in as little as 10 to 20 minutes. Wrap him/her in a towel or blanket and get them to A&NRD immediately. You can also put a drop or two of Karo syrup or honey on your pets gums to help keep it conscious.
If he has gone into shock, you may need to perform artificial respiration. Wrap your hand around his muzzle to close his mouth and blow into his nose with two quick breaths. Watch for his chest to rise, and then give 15 to 20 breaths a minute until he begins breathing again on his own or until you reach medical help. After each breath, watch for his chest to rise, and then remove your lips and let the air escape.
Raise the injured part
Elevating the injured area will help slow bleeding. This isn’t essential; in fact, it could be harmful if a bone has been broken. If your pet holds one of his limbs in an awkward way or doesn’t move it at all, if one of his limbs dangles at a strange angle, if he seems to be in extreme pain when moving or if you can feel his bone crunch has he moves a limb, he may have a broken bone and needs to see A&NRD right away.
If your pets ears are bleeding
Ears have a vein near the surface that can bleed a lot, and since pets shake their heads when an ear is injured, the bleeding gets worse. To put pressure on the ears, first apply an absorbent pad or cloth. Cut a length from a pair of tights and slip it over your pets head, behind the ears, then move the tights forward over the absorbent bandage to hold it in place. Make sure his eyes and mouth are not covered. Use the thigh part of the tights for big dogs and the toe end for smaller pets.
Follow-up care
Whether or not a wound requires stitches, it’s essential to keep it clean for at least a week afterwards. Sponge off discharge and crust from around the wound edges several times a day. Do not disturb the wound itself unless directed by A&NRD. Follow this with an application of antibiotic ointment.
Dogs and cats instinctively lick their wounds, and in some cases, this can reduce the risk of infection, but, more than a few gentle licks may be too much. Pets who lick their wounds too much can dramatically slow the healing time. If the area around the wound seems moist or wet and the scab never seems to dry out, you may need to fit your pet with a cone shaped restraint collar called an Elizabethan Collar, which will keep him from licking his wounds. The collar may make it hard to eat, so you may need to remove it at mealtimes.
Deep wounds however, and wounds involving a severed vein or artery are more serious. Neck and leg wounds tend to be the worst because large veins and arteries lie near the surface in these areas. Blood from a damaged vein is dark red and flows evenly. Blood from a damaged artery spurts with each heartbeat, is bright red and is generally much more serious.
Bleeding from shallow cuts and scrapes can be stopped with simple First Aid. Deeper wounds always need medical attention, even when you’re able to stop the bleeding at home.
Control the Bleeding
Don’t wash wounds that are bleeding heavily, it will make it harder for clots to form. You need to control the bleeding first. Apply a gauze pad on a clean piece of cloth to the wound, or use a sanitary towel, it’s perfect because the material is highly absorbent. If blood soaks through the towel, apply a second towel on top of the first one and continue the pressure,(Removing the first one will remove the clot that’s trying to form)the bleeding should stop in 5 minutes or less.
When you can’t stop bleeding with finger pressure alone, you’ll need to apply a pressure bandage. With the original pad still in place, wrap it with several layers of roll gauze, an elastic bandage like an `Ace` bandage or even duct tape or meshing tape. The pressure bandage should be firm but not tight. If you can’t easily slip the end of a cotton swab under the bandage, it is probably too tight. For smaller pets cover the absorbent pad with plastic wrap and keep pressure on the pad.
Look for signs of shock
Pets who have lost a lot of blood also lose their ability to retain heat, and they may go into shock- a condition in which the bodies organs shut down. Shock can kill a pet in as little as 10 to 20 minutes. Wrap him/her in a towel or blanket and get them to A&NRD immediately. You can also put a drop or two of Karo syrup or honey on your pets gums to help keep it conscious.
If he has gone into shock, you may need to perform artificial respiration. Wrap your hand around his muzzle to close his mouth and blow into his nose with two quick breaths. Watch for his chest to rise, and then give 15 to 20 breaths a minute until he begins breathing again on his own or until you reach medical help. After each breath, watch for his chest to rise, and then remove your lips and let the air escape.
Raise the injured part
Elevating the injured area will help slow bleeding. This isn’t essential; in fact, it could be harmful if a bone has been broken. If your pet holds one of his limbs in an awkward way or doesn’t move it at all, if one of his limbs dangles at a strange angle, if he seems to be in extreme pain when moving or if you can feel his bone crunch has he moves a limb, he may have a broken bone and needs to see A&NRD right away.
If your pets ears are bleeding
Ears have a vein near the surface that can bleed a lot, and since pets shake their heads when an ear is injured, the bleeding gets worse. To put pressure on the ears, first apply an absorbent pad or cloth. Cut a length from a pair of tights and slip it over your pets head, behind the ears, then move the tights forward over the absorbent bandage to hold it in place. Make sure his eyes and mouth are not covered. Use the thigh part of the tights for big dogs and the toe end for smaller pets.
Follow-up care
Whether or not a wound requires stitches, it’s essential to keep it clean for at least a week afterwards. Sponge off discharge and crust from around the wound edges several times a day. Do not disturb the wound itself unless directed by A&NRD. Follow this with an application of antibiotic ointment.
Dogs and cats instinctively lick their wounds, and in some cases, this can reduce the risk of infection, but, more than a few gentle licks may be too much. Pets who lick their wounds too much can dramatically slow the healing time. If the area around the wound seems moist or wet and the scab never seems to dry out, you may need to fit your pet with a cone shaped restraint collar called an Elizabethan Collar, which will keep him from licking his wounds. The collar may make it hard to eat, so you may need to remove it at mealtimes.
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